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Island
Tourist Guide - Hidden Treasure |
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Hidden
Treasures
The
Canary Islands have
many Hidden Treasures to just waiting to be discovered.
For example, travelling around the islands,
it's
possible to
pass blindly through some of the small villages
thinking there is nothing of interest in the area.
Further investigation will often
reveal a wonderful restaurant housed in the most
basic and unassuming building possible. Our Hidden
Treasures guide is here to provide the information
needed to unveil some of the island's little-known
delights. We have selected a variety of places
for you to enjoy. |
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El
Bosquecillo
(The
Little Forest)
Deep in the heart of Lanzarote is
a green and tranquil area perfect for a family picnic
ONE of the few
criticisms sometimes offered about Lanzarote is
its lack of greenery. The landscape of black, mysterious
lava fields is stunning and often haunting but
people do miss the welcoming sight of the lush,
green British countryside from time to time.
So when that happens...
head to El Bosquecillo. The 'little forest' can
be found (with a bit of persistence!) on the road
towards Haria. The landmark to look out for when
heading towards El Bosquecillo is the two giant
'balls' on the roadside! Heading in the direction
of Haria, you will pass a radar station on the
left-hand side and the two big balls are clearly
visible from the road. Take the road on the left
and head towards the balls. Go off-road to the
right (this is a bit bumpy but you don't need a
4x4) and you will find the 'little forest'.
Spectacular
views
The bushes and trees in the area make it reminiscent of a British woodland
(though on a very small scale) and, because it is situated on one of the highest
points of the island, the temperature feels fairly British too! Be sure to
take a warmer item of clothing with you, as it may feel colder than the rest
of the island. You can stand at the edge and see right down to Famara Beach
(not for the faint-hearted...), which is a drop of several hundred feet. The
views are spectacular and offer some impressive photo opportunities on a cloudless
day.
Birds
of prey
Twitchers will be pleased to know that there are frequent sightings of the
Peregrine Falcon on Los Bosquecillo and other species of bird. Apparently they
are kept well fed by the lizards that reside at the beauty spot! Even if you
don't plan to spend the day and have a picnic at Los Bosquecillo, seek it out
as part of your trip to Haria or Mirador del Rio or the Guinate Tropical Park.
It really is a sight for sore eyes.
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Los
Hervideros
A cliff-lined coast where the
pure white foam of the sea crashes into the dark and mysterious
rocks of volcanic lava
LOS HERVIDEROS,
or 'the boiling pots', are so-called because at
this point of the island the sea hits the cliffs
with such force as to make it seem as though it
has reached boiling point when the waves rise up
and swell into huge, foaming fountains. Many visitors
make their way to El Golfo after reading about
this particular attraction in tourist guides. Well,
Los Hervideros is as forceful and energetic as
El Golfo is peaceful and tranquil. Even the colours
of El Golfo and Los Hervideros - both shaped by
the same combination of volcanic eruptions and
the relentless attack of the sea - are stark in
their contrasts; whereas El Golfo is noted for
its emerald green lagoon, Los Hervideros is startling
for its blackness.
Cliff
'balconies'
It is possible to walk some distance along the cliff edges at Los Hervideros
and some brave visitors venture down into the depths of the cliffs where they
can stand in natural 'balconies' to view the wonder of the waters, the huge
boulders in the sea - and not forgetting the one or two intrepid fishermen
who manage to find their way down to the base of the cliffs!
White
salt, black beach
Los Hervideros is situated on the south west coast of the island between El
Golfo and Salinas del Janubio, an impressive man-made landscape that produces
large quantities of salt. Beside the saltworks is Playa Janubio, an impressive
stretch of beach made up of black, volcanic sand. The different colours and
textures of the natural landscape in this area of the island are quite breath-taking.
Many of the ancient
cliff edges of Los Hervideros are wafer-like because
of the layers upon layers of volcanic lava. The
cliffs are several feet high but the force of the
water still makes an impact when you are standing
at the top; the waves hit the water with such rage
that the sound alone rattles the senses. The sight
of Los Hervideros is another thing altogether and
has to be seen to be believed. Los Hervideros can
be reached by heading towards Yaiza and then following
signs to El Golfo. Los Hervideros is on the left
(a small sign shows the way) before you get to
El Golfo.
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Femes
An unspoilt mountain
village perfect for a lazy lunch complemented by breath-taking
views
FEMES is not one of the places
that a guidebook on Lanzarote would devote much space to.
It has no large attraction to draw the crowds, no facilities
for kids' amusement and no beach.
Surprised it isn't in the
guide books? Don't be. Femes is still worthy of a visit for
its spectacular viewpoint and for its tranquility. The peak
of Femes is situated between two large mountains. A balcony
viewpoint offers incredible views of the volcano Monta-a
Roja, Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura and, obviously, the
clearer the day the better the views.
There is a restaurant called
Restaurant Balcón de Femes with a terraced seating
area in the best spot from which to admire the wonderful
views. This is an ideal way to spend an afternoon - sipping
a cold drink on the terrace with the mountains and sky stretching
out before your eyes.
Ancient
church
Femes has a few other restaurants, Restaurant Casa Emiliano and Restaurant
Femes, a shop, a handful of houses and an ancient church. The church of, Marcial
del Rubicón, was officially opened on February 17th, 1733 during the
mighty volcanic eruptions that started in 1730 and continued until 1736. It
is currently undergoing a major restoration programme.
Helicopter
Entering Femes from Uga, visitors pass a house on the right-hand side, which
has a very 'eccentric' garden! Look out for the life-size antique helicopter,
ship's anchor and other sailing memorabilia (makes a change from garden gnomes...)
After enjoying the views,
exit Femes at the other end (towards Las Breñas) for
a hair-raising drive! (This road is definitely not for the
faint-hearted!) The road may remind you of a James Bond movie
as you twist and turn your way down to solid ground.
How
to find it:
From Puerto del Carmen, head towards Puerto Calero and then follow the road
towards Yaiza. Femes is signposted on the left before you reach Uga. Femes
is a very pleasant diversion en-route from Playa Blanca to Puerto del Carmen
or vice-versa.
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Uga
Smoked Salmon Style
And a well-kept Spanish secret
Ahumaderia de Uga
and Bodega de Uga are Lanzarote treasures well worth
hunting down. With the majority of their clients
being Spanish, these two little gems have remained
a bit of a secret to most tourists and non-Spanish
residents - until now. The Gazette visited both places
and discovered something truly special...
Ahumaderia de Uga
is a supplier of the finest smoked salmon (most of
which is shipped over from Scotland) and the Bodega
de Uga is a divine restaurant that serves the salmon
on little toasts with minimum accompaniment - the
salmon being naturally delicious. They are run respectively
by Ana Maria Suarez Maceyra and husband Carlos Guerrero
Lahodor.
I had the pleasure
of visiting both places, along with a colleague,
in our quest to uncover some of Lanzarote's Hidden
Treasures. And we left feeling as though we had definitely
made a gastronomic discovery. A finer couple of hours
would be difficult to spend in the name of 'work'.
Let me enlighten you.
Fresh
smoked salmon
Ahumaderia de Uga (Smokery of Uga) is situated on the main road between Puerto
Calero and Yaiza. Its business is very simple; it imports the very best salmon
from Scotland and Norway, removes all fins and unwanted bits, sprinkles it
with salt and smokes it in a wood oven for two days. The salmon is then ready
to eat and the Smokery recommends serving it with very little other ingredients
- perhaps some finely chopped onion, capers and dill with crusty bread.
We were treated to
a taste of the salmon and, despite being a bit of
a philistine who usually prefers to cook smoked salmon
to alter the texture, I found it delicious and can
understand why some locals visit the Smokery every
few weeks for supplies.
The Smokery was started
more than 30 years ago by a German couple who first
operated using eels from Lanzarote but they became
very expensive. Current owner, Ana, takes up the
story:
"We came here 14 years ago in 1988 and we still have clients who bought
fish here 30 years ago when it first opened. People buy the salmon for special
occasions and sometimes to take home with them. Personally, I love it with just
black pepper even though I am working with it every day. You never tire of good
things."
Ahumaderia
de Uga
Open Tue-Fri 10:00-13:30 16:00-18:30
Sat 10:00-14:00
Cost: €30 per kilo. Minimum purchase 500 grams.
Tel: 928 830 132.
Bodega
de Uga
TWO years after opening the Smokery, Carlos restored an old house opposite
and opened Bodega de Uga. This is not your run-of-the-mill type of restaurant.
This is a treat and an experience you will not want to forget for a long time
afterwards. Surrounded on all sides by spectacular mountain scenery, the Bodega
has a setting fitting to its beauty. When you walk inside, the feeling of warmth
and character instantly makes an impact.
The restaurant is
decorated with hand-picked artefacts, pictures and
objects of interest depicting fruits, flowers, animals...
creating a homely atmosphere with great style and
flare. This is all the work of Carlos himself as
is everything about the Bodega. Carlos selects the
produce, cooks it along with his right-hand man Mario
Moro, and, between them, they also serve the clients.
There is no menu to speak of.
Carlos and Mario
talk to their diners, find out what they like and
provide them with a dinner consisting of smoked salmon,
tuna, chicken and other meats, salads and so on.
The food is of the best quality and is cooked as
though the diners were Carlos's family; he thrives
on people's enjoyment of the food. "Sometimes
I see people in other restaurants and I feel sorry
for them", he says. "They are presented
with a long list of food and much of it will taste
the same anyway. They ask the waiter to recommend
something but he hasn't selected or prepared the
food. I love to see people enjoy the food I serve
them."
This place is - understandably
- very popular with Spanish locals and one or two
Germans and Brits have uncovered it too. It is necessary
to book, as the Bodega is often booked for months
in advance. It has a large banqueting table in a
separate room, which is used for parties and special
occasions. My colleague and I were blown away by
the ambience of the Bodega, the beauty of the interior
and the hospitality of Carlos and his small team.
One danger of uncovering treasure is that everyone
wants some. In this instance, that can be arranged
but you may have to wait some time.
Bodega de Uga
Open 19:00 - Midnight (Closed
Thursday)
Cost: Average per head €30
Tel: 928 830 147
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Caleton
Blanco
An oasis of white sand and
aqua lagoons at the north of the island.
Even if you are
one of those people who avoids beaches because
of all that yucky sand that gets under your fingernails,
in your hair, inside your cossie, all over the
car and... (You get the picture!) We guarantee
you will love Caleton Blanco. Yes, guarantee!
Those are strong
words but this is an amazing place. Situated on
the north-east coast of the island, Caleton Blanco
is no ordinary beach. Only one road leads to Caleton
Blanco - the main coastal road from Mala towards
Orzola. And you will know the beach when you see
it. It seems to glow because of the purity of the
white sand.
Shallow
lagoon
A dirt road leads down to a small stretch of sand, which has evolved, into
a makeshift car park. From here, there is a very short walk to the smooth,
sandy areas used for sunbathing close to the lagoon. The lagoon - a long stretch
of water cradled in some low, black rocks - is only about three feet high in
most areas. It is extremely clear and still and perfect for children to swim
safely and comfortably. Here, the water is shallow, so the temperature of the
water is very pleasant and perfectly safe for children.
Caleton Blanco
is ideal for a family day at the beach. As there
are no cafés or restaurants close by, it
is a good idea to pack a picnic box when going
to Caleton Blanco or just spend half a day and
then continue the drive up to Orzola, the dreamy
fishing village a short drive away from the beach.
Orzola has many tempting fish restaurants using
fish caught locally. Those who are lucky enough
to be in Orzola at the right time can see the fishermen
bringing in their catch. Orzola is also the place
to head to take a ferry across to La Graciosa,
the sleepy little island 2km away from Lanzarote.
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