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Island Tourist Guide - Hidden Treasure
 

 

 

Hidden Treasures
The Canary Islands
have many Hidden Treasures to just waiting to be discovered. For example, travelling around the islands, it's possible to pass blindly through some of the small villages thinking there is nothing of interest in the area.

Further investigation will often reveal a wonderful restaurant housed in the most basic and unassuming building possible. Our Hidden Treasures guide is here to provide the information needed to unveil some of the island's little-known delights. We have selected a variety of places for you to enjoy.

Explore
El Bosquecillo

Los Hervideros
Femes
Uga
Caleton Blanco

El Bosquecillo
(The Little Forest)
Deep in the heart of Lanzarote is a green and tranquil area perfect for a family picnic

ONE of the few criticisms sometimes offered about Lanzarote is its lack of greenery. The landscape of black, mysterious lava fields is stunning and often haunting but people do miss the welcoming sight of the lush, green British countryside from time to time.

So when that happens... head to El Bosquecillo. The 'little forest' can be found (with a bit of persistence!) on the road towards Haria. The landmark to look out for when heading towards El Bosquecillo is the two giant 'balls' on the roadside! Heading in the direction of Haria, you will pass a radar station on the left-hand side and the two big balls are clearly visible from the road. Take the road on the left and head towards the balls. Go off-road to the right (this is a bit bumpy but you don't need a 4x4) and you will find the 'little forest'.

Spectacular views
The bushes and trees in the area make it reminiscent of a British woodland (though on a very small scale) and, because it is situated on one of the highest points of the island, the temperature feels fairly British too! Be sure to take a warmer item of clothing with you, as it may feel colder than the rest of the island. You can stand at the edge and see right down to Famara Beach (not for the faint-hearted...), which is a drop of several hundred feet. The views are spectacular and offer some impressive photo opportunities on a cloudless day.

Birds of prey
Twitchers will be pleased to know that there are frequent sightings of the Peregrine Falcon on Los Bosquecillo and other species of bird. Apparently they are kept well fed by the lizards that reside at the beauty spot! Even if you don't plan to spend the day and have a picnic at Los Bosquecillo, seek it out as part of your trip to Haria or Mirador del Rio or the Guinate Tropical Park. It really is a sight for sore eyes.

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Haria
Haria
 

Los Hervideros
A cliff-lined coast where the pure white foam of the sea crashes into the dark and mysterious rocks of volcanic lava

LOS HERVIDEROS, or 'the boiling pots', are so-called because at this point of the island the sea hits the cliffs with such force as to make it seem as though it has reached boiling point when the waves rise up and swell into huge, foaming fountains. Many visitors make their way to El Golfo after reading about this particular attraction in tourist guides. Well, Los Hervideros is as forceful and energetic as El Golfo is peaceful and tranquil. Even the colours of El Golfo and Los Hervideros - both shaped by the same combination of volcanic eruptions and the relentless attack of the sea - are stark in their contrasts; whereas El Golfo is noted for its emerald green lagoon, Los Hervideros is startling for its blackness.

Cliff 'balconies'
It is possible to walk some distance along the cliff edges at Los Hervideros and some brave visitors venture down into the depths of the cliffs where they can stand in natural 'balconies' to view the wonder of the waters, the huge boulders in the sea - and not forgetting the one or two intrepid fishermen who manage to find their way down to the base of the cliffs!

White salt, black beach
Los Hervideros is situated on the south west coast of the island between El Golfo and Salinas del Janubio, an impressive man-made landscape that produces large quantities of salt. Beside the saltworks is Playa Janubio, an impressive stretch of beach made up of black, volcanic sand. The different colours and textures of the natural landscape in this area of the island are quite breath-taking.

Many of the ancient cliff edges of Los Hervideros are wafer-like because of the layers upon layers of volcanic lava. The cliffs are several feet high but the force of the water still makes an impact when you are standing at the top; the waves hit the water with such rage that the sound alone rattles the senses. The sight of Los Hervideros is another thing altogether and has to be seen to be believed. Los Hervideros can be reached by heading towards Yaiza and then following signs to El Golfo. Los Hervideros is on the left (a small sign shows the way) before you get to El Golfo.

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los hervideros
los hervideros
los hervideros

 

Femes
An unspoilt mountain village perfect for a lazy lunch complemented by breath-taking views

FEMES is not one of the places that a guidebook on Lanzarote would devote much space to. It has no large attraction to draw the crowds, no facilities for kids' amusement and no beach.

Surprised it isn't in the guide books? Don't be. Femes is still worthy of a visit for its spectacular viewpoint and for its tranquility. The peak of Femes is situated between two large mountains. A balcony viewpoint offers incredible views of the volcano Monta-a Roja, Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura and, obviously, the clearer the day the better the views.

There is a restaurant called Restaurant Balcón de Femes with a terraced seating area in the best spot from which to admire the wonderful views. This is an ideal way to spend an afternoon - sipping a cold drink on the terrace with the mountains and sky stretching out before your eyes.

Ancient church
Femes has a few other restaurants, Restaurant Casa Emiliano and Restaurant Femes, a shop, a handful of houses and an ancient church. The church of, Marcial del Rubicón, was officially opened on February 17th, 1733 during the mighty volcanic eruptions that started in 1730 and continued until 1736. It is currently undergoing a major restoration programme.

Helicopter
Entering Femes from Uga, visitors pass a house on the right-hand side, which has a very 'eccentric' garden! Look out for the life-size antique helicopter, ship's anchor and other sailing memorabilia (makes a change from garden gnomes...)

After enjoying the views, exit Femes at the other end (towards Las Breñas) for a hair-raising drive! (This road is definitely not for the faint-hearted!) The road may remind you of a James Bond movie as you twist and turn your way down to solid ground.

How to find it:
From Puerto del Carmen, head towards Puerto Calero and then follow the road towards Yaiza. Femes is signposted on the left before you reach Uga. Femes is a very pleasant diversion en-route from Playa Blanca to Puerto del Carmen or vice-versa.

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femes
femes church
femes

 

Uga
Smoked Salmon Style And a well-kept Spanish secret

Ahumaderia de Uga and Bodega de Uga are Lanzarote treasures well worth hunting down. With the majority of their clients being Spanish, these two little gems have remained a bit of a secret to most tourists and non-Spanish residents - until now. The Gazette visited both places and discovered something truly special...

Ahumaderia de Uga is a supplier of the finest smoked salmon (most of which is shipped over from Scotland) and the Bodega de Uga is a divine restaurant that serves the salmon on little toasts with minimum accompaniment - the salmon being naturally delicious. They are run respectively by Ana Maria Suarez Maceyra and husband Carlos Guerrero Lahodor.

I had the pleasure of visiting both places, along with a colleague, in our quest to uncover some of Lanzarote's Hidden Treasures. And we left feeling as though we had definitely made a gastronomic discovery. A finer couple of hours would be difficult to spend in the name of 'work'. Let me enlighten you.

Fresh smoked salmon
Ahumaderia de Uga (Smokery of Uga) is situated on the main road between Puerto Calero and Yaiza. Its business is very simple; it imports the very best salmon from Scotland and Norway, removes all fins and unwanted bits, sprinkles it with salt and smokes it in a wood oven for two days. The salmon is then ready to eat and the Smokery recommends serving it with very little other ingredients - perhaps some finely chopped onion, capers and dill with crusty bread.

We were treated to a taste of the salmon and, despite being a bit of a philistine who usually prefers to cook smoked salmon to alter the texture, I found it delicious and can understand why some locals visit the Smokery every few weeks for supplies.

The Smokery was started more than 30 years ago by a German couple who first operated using eels from Lanzarote but they became very expensive. Current owner, Ana, takes up the story:
"We came here 14 years ago in 1988 and we still have clients who bought fish here 30 years ago when it first opened. People buy the salmon for special occasions and sometimes to take home with them. Personally, I love it with just black pepper even though I am working with it every day. You never tire of good things."

Ahumaderia de Uga
Open Tue-Fri 10:00-13:30 16:00-18:30 Sat 10:00-14:00
Cost: €30 per kilo. Minimum purchase 500 grams.
Tel: 928 830 132.

Bodega de Uga
TWO years after opening the Smokery, Carlos restored an old house opposite and opened Bodega de Uga. This is not your run-of-the-mill type of restaurant. This is a treat and an experience you will not want to forget for a long time afterwards. Surrounded on all sides by spectacular mountain scenery, the Bodega has a setting fitting to its beauty. When you walk inside, the feeling of warmth and character instantly makes an impact.

The restaurant is decorated with hand-picked artefacts, pictures and objects of interest depicting fruits, flowers, animals... creating a homely atmosphere with great style and flare. This is all the work of Carlos himself as is everything about the Bodega. Carlos selects the produce, cooks it along with his right-hand man Mario Moro, and, between them, they also serve the clients. There is no menu to speak of.

Carlos and Mario talk to their diners, find out what they like and provide them with a dinner consisting of smoked salmon, tuna, chicken and other meats, salads and so on. The food is of the best quality and is cooked as though the diners were Carlos's family; he thrives on people's enjoyment of the food. "Sometimes I see people in other restaurants and I feel sorry for them", he says. "They are presented with a long list of food and much of it will taste the same anyway. They ask the waiter to recommend something but he hasn't selected or prepared the food. I love to see people enjoy the food I serve them."

This place is - understandably - very popular with Spanish locals and one or two Germans and Brits have uncovered it too. It is necessary to book, as the Bodega is often booked for months in advance. It has a large banqueting table in a separate room, which is used for parties and special occasions. My colleague and I were blown away by the ambience of the Bodega, the beauty of the interior and the hospitality of Carlos and his small team. One danger of uncovering treasure is that everyone wants some. In this instance, that can be arranged but you may have to wait some time.

Bodega de Uga
Open 19:00 - Midnight (Closed Thursday)
Cost: Average per head €30
Tel: 928 830 147

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Uga smoked salmon
 
bodega uga
bodega uga

 

Caleton Blanco
An oasis of white sand and aqua lagoons at the north of the island.

Even if you are one of those people who avoids beaches because of all that yucky sand that gets under your fingernails, in your hair, inside your cossie, all over the car and... (You get the picture!) We guarantee you will love Caleton Blanco. Yes, guarantee!

Those are strong words but this is an amazing place. Situated on the north-east coast of the island, Caleton Blanco is no ordinary beach. Only one road leads to Caleton Blanco - the main coastal road from Mala towards Orzola. And you will know the beach when you see it. It seems to glow because of the purity of the white sand.

Shallow lagoon
A dirt road leads down to a small stretch of sand, which has evolved, into a makeshift car park. From here, there is a very short walk to the smooth, sandy areas used for sunbathing close to the lagoon. The lagoon - a long stretch of water cradled in some low, black rocks - is only about three feet high in most areas. It is extremely clear and still and perfect for children to swim safely and comfortably. Here, the water is shallow, so the temperature of the water is very pleasant and perfectly safe for children.

Caleton Blanco is ideal for a family day at the beach. As there are no cafés or restaurants close by, it is a good idea to pack a picnic box when going to Caleton Blanco or just spend half a day and then continue the drive up to Orzola, the dreamy fishing village a short drive away from the beach. Orzola has many tempting fish restaurants using fish caught locally. Those who are lucky enough to be in Orzola at the right time can see the fishermen bringing in their catch. Orzola is also the place to head to take a ferry across to La Graciosa, the sleepy little island 2km away from Lanzarote.

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caleton blanco
caleton blanco

 

 

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